I’m not made of bed frame money, but we wanted something with extra storage that didn’t cost a million dollars. This frame was easy for one person to assemble, the kit was straightforward, and the instructions were clear and easy to follow. That being said, this frame would likely fall apart with general use without modifications during construction. The whole thing is particle board, the slats are unfinished and can snag your mattress, and the pre-drilled holes don’t securely anchor the screws that hold the runners in place. The slats rest inside metal brackets at the head and foot of the bed, but just rest against the two inner wood support boards in the middle of the bed. When you roll in bed or engage in extracurricular activities, I would imagine that gets noisy.
HOWEVER- with a few inexpensive modifications and some pre-planning, you can make this frame work. I focused on reinforcing the frame with metal support brackets, buffering the slats and snugging up the fit of the support brackets with sticky-back felt, and covering the assembled slats with utility cloth to keep my mattress from snagging. I also used an entire bottle of wood glue during assembly to secure the screws in all the pre-drilled holes and reinforce all the wooden joints.
Supplies:
Wood Glue- glue on all joints before the hardware is secured, and glue in all the hardware holes
Power Drill/driver- to drill new guide holes for the addition of the corners braces. You could complete the general assembly with just a screw driver, but it would add a lot of time to the process.
Sticky-back felt (2-3 9x12 sheets)- cut into strips and apply to the top edge of both middle support boards to keep the slats from twacking against them when you move on the bed. I also applied a strip to the bottom edge of the slats support brackets at the head and foot of the bed. This further reduced the noise and secured the slats a little tighter.
Metal corner braces (24)- I secured the four main corners of the frame on the inside at the top and bottom of each corner (8 brackets) and at the top and bottom of each of the two middle support boards on each side of the board (8 brackets for each board)
Utility cloth- I found non-woven, glued fiber utility cloth (think the upholstery cloth that covers the the bottom, non-visible parts of your arm chair or couch) at Joanne Fabrics for about $1.50 a yard. It was about 45 inches wide on the bolt, and I had the store attendant cut two pieces 80 inches long. I used this to cover the assembled slats on the bed and secured it with a construction stapler to keep the mattress from getting snagged on the unfinished wood slats.
Staple Gun
Once assembled, the bed feels sturdy, the slats don’t make noise, and the drawers fit well after a few small shifts in the frame to square it up. I’m confident that we’ll get our money’s worth for this purchase, including the extra $20ish bucks we spent to reinforce the unit.
Nice bed, with a few modifications
I’m not made of bed frame money, but we wanted something with extra storage that didn’t cost a million dollars. This frame was easy for one person to assemble, the kit was straightforward, and the instructions were clear and easy to follow. That being said, this frame would likely fall apart with general use without modifications during construction. The whole thing is particle board, the slats are unfinished and can snag your mattress, and the pre-drilled holes don’t securely anchor the screws that hold the runners in place. The slats rest inside metal brackets at the head and foot of the bed, but just rest against the two inner wood support boards in the middle of the bed. When you roll in bed or engage in extracurricular activities, I would imagine that gets noisy. HOWEVER- with a few inexpensive modifications and some pre-planning, you can make this frame work. I focused on reinforcing the frame with metal support brackets, buffering the slats and snugging up the fit of the support brackets with sticky-back felt, and covering the assembled slats with utility cloth to keep my mattress from snagging. I also used an entire bottle of wood glue during assembly to secure the screws in all the pre-drilled holes and reinforce all the wooden joints. Supplies: Wood Glue- glue on all joints before the hardware is secured, and glue in all the hardware holes Power Drill/driver- to drill new guide holes for the addition of the corners braces. You could complete the general assembly with just a screw driver, but it would add a lot of time to the process. Sticky-back felt (2-3 9x12 sheets)- cut into strips and apply to the top edge of both middle support boards to keep the slats from twacking against them when you move on the bed. I also applied a strip to the bottom edge of the slats support brackets at the head and foot of the bed. This further reduced the noise and secured the slats a little tighter. Metal corner braces (24)- I secured the four main corners of the frame on the inside at the top and bottom of each corner (8 brackets) and at the top and bottom of each of the two middle support boards on each side of the board (8 brackets for each board) Utility cloth- I found non-woven, glued fiber utility cloth (think the upholstery cloth that covers the the bottom, non-visible parts of your arm chair or couch) at Joanne Fabrics for about $1.50 a yard. It was about 45 inches wide on the bolt, and I had the store attendant cut two pieces 80 inches long. I used this to cover the assembled slats on the bed and secured it with a construction stapler to keep the mattress from getting snagged on the unfinished wood slats. Staple Gun Once assembled, the bed feels sturdy, the slats don’t make noise, and the drawers fit well after a few small shifts in the frame to square it up. I’m confident that we’ll get our money’s worth for this purchase, including the extra $20ish bucks we spent to reinforce the unit.